How UV Light Damages Action Figures & Cardbacks
UV exposure is one of the fastest ways to ruin colour, print and plastics — especially on mint-on-card (MOC) pieces and loose figures on open shelves. This guide shows the most common UV damage signs and the simple steps collectors use to reduce it.
What UV actually does to packaging & figures
UV light accelerates chemical reactions in inks, coatings and plastics. On carded figures this shows up as print fade, washed logos and uneven colour shift. On loose figures, UV can cause plastic discolouration and sometimes a chalky, dull finish.
Damage can be slow and subtle — until you compare it to a protected piece.
Bright windows are worst, but some room lighting can contribute over long periods.
Reduce exposure + keep the piece stable (no bubble pressure, no card bowing).
UV damage signs to look for (MOC + loose)
- Cardback fade: areas exposed to light look paler than protected areas.
- Logo washout: brand marks and character names lose contrast.
- Bubble yellowing: clear blisters take on a warmer tint over time.
- Uneven colour shift: one side of the card/figure looks different (window side vs room side).
- Loose figure discolouration: whites/greys shift, bright colours dull, paint pops less.
Where UV exposure comes from in real homes
The fastest path to fading. Even “indirect” sun can bounce and still hit your display.
Slower than sunlight, but long exposure adds up — especially with high-output bulbs close to shelves.
Top shelves and window-facing walls usually take the biggest hit.
How collectors reduce UV damage (simple, practical)
- Keep high-value pieces away from window lines.
- Use UV-resistant acrylic for displayed MOC and loose figures.
- Choose the correct case depth so the bubble isn’t under pressure.
- Rotate display positions periodically (especially summer).
- Mounting grails in direct sun “because it looks good” (it will cook them).
- Using cases with extra slack where the card shifts & rubs.
- Forcing a deep bubble into a standard case (pressure marks happen).
- Leaving loose figures on open shelves in bright rooms long-term.
Case depth matters (standard vs deep vs extra-deep)
UV is only one part of long-term protection. The other killer is pressure — when a bubble is too close to the front panel, you can get stress points and contact marks. Picking the right depth tier helps keep your piece stable.
For shallow/average bubbles. Cleaner fit, less movement, better wall alignment.
For noticeably protruding bubbles (line-specific). Prevents bubble compression.
For oversized/irregular bubbles. Maximum clearance for high-value pieces.
UV damage FAQ
Is UV damage reversible?
Do cases stop UV completely?
Does UV only matter for MOC?
How do I pick the correct case if I’m unsure?
Want to reduce UV risk the easy way?
Use the Case Finder to match your toy line + figure style to the right case depth. Then browse the collection built for your cards.